The Darter Dragonflies

As I write, it is grey outside. Mild now the now has melted, but drizzling and chill. Dragonfly season is well over. But it lasted into October, even November with the mild conditions and today feels an excellent day to look back.

Ruddy Darter, male, Essex 2022

At nearly every site I surveyed, the most numerous genus of Dragonfly I encountered, especially as the season pushed on into August and September, was Sympetrum. Specifically, Sympetrum sanguineum, the Ruddy Darter, and S. striolatum, the Common Darter, the former apparently capable of surviving even mildly brackish water conditions, favouring low lying coastal marshland, occurring alongside Scarce Emerald Damselfly (Lestes dryas) and Southern Migrant Hawker (Aeshna affinis). The latter, S. striolatum, is capable of flying well into the season of mists and mellow fruitfulness and is often one of the last dragonflies on the wing. However despite their abundance, and their abundant charisma, this genus seems relatively unexplored in the popular literature.

Ruddy Darter, Male, in Obelisk position as he attempts to lose heat during the heatwave of July 2022. 

These represent the two commonest species of Sympetrum, a genus in the family Libellulidae. Both species are broadly speaking red in the adult male, and gold, fading to brown in the the females. These creatures are, like other Odonata, agile aerial predators as adults, darting from their perches and sunbathing spots to seize small insects off the wing. It is this darting habit which gives them their common name. Their larvae lurk in almost any still or slow-moving body of water you might find.

Common Darter, Rainham Marshes, October 2021

Most numerous in the low coastal marshes of Essex in June and July is the Ruddy Darter (Sympetrum sanguineum),the males vivid, blood-red as the scientific name implies, the females an eye catching straw gold. They are the smallest of the ‘large’ dragonflies (Anisoptera) typically on the wing. They tend to form an assemblage with Scarce Emerald Damselflies (Lestes dryas) and Southern Migrant Hawkers (Aeshna affinis) alongside several of the small, blue damselflies, a habit noted by Brooks and Cham in their excellent field guide, which I found reflected strongly when I had the privilege of carrying out dragonfly surveys for a conservation organisation in the Summer of 2022. The males possess something of a ‘waist’ to the abdomen and can appear club tailed. Legs are jet black and the thorax lacks distinct stripes.

Common Darter, Otmoor, Oxfordshire, September 2022

Common Darter Breeding territories are closely guarded, with adults prepared to chase away any intruders, but away from water, their habitats are different. They like to be in the sun, and pick the sunniest spot they can find, and bathe in it, absorbing the solar energy through their skin. Signage, gateposts and fencing are among their favoured perches, and here they can gather in large numbers, occasionally lifting up, briefly, to grab some passing prey on the wing, or in readiness to flee a threatening shadow, before settling back down again, usually in the same patch of sunshine from which they took off. In Autumn especially, Common Darters can be surprisingly willing to come and sit on an outstretched hand, something I have witnessed and done several times, at a few sites up and down the country. Try it one sunny afternoon. Go somewhere with abundant Common Darters, any still water with adjacent sunlit rides is a good bet, find a patch of sunshine, and hold out a hand.Perhaps these engaging insects will come and visit. Stand calmly; they are completely harmless and will not bite, and they will use you as a sunbathing and bug hunting post.

Black Darter, male, Garry, Isle of Lewis and Harris, Scotland, August 2021

Both Common and Ruddy Darter are abundant and thriving, but another Sympetrum, S. danae, the Black Darter, a specialist of acidic pools on heath and moorland, has shown significant declines in its numbers in recent years. It is still an abundant dragonfly in the somewhat specialised habitats in which it occurs. Our smallest Sympetrum, and indeed our smallest true Dragonfly, shorter than your little finger, the male S. danae is also the only entirely black dragonfly in Britain; the female is black and gold. Like their red lowland cousins they can be confiding and will occasionally perch on fingers. Another upland species, under more extreme threat of local extinction, is the White-Faced Darter (Leucorrhinia dubia), reintroduced since 2010 to Foulshaw Moss in Cumbria, a Cumbria Wildlife Trust reserve probably most famous for its breeding Ospreys. A true specialist, this beautiful insect, with a white frons and a body dappled red and black, or gold and black in the female, they spend their larval development right down among the mass of sphagnum, avoiding open water, or anywhere fish can be found. Like so many species of the North, it is threatened by peat extraction, the abandonment of traditional moorland management, and by a warming climate. The peatland habitats in which these two darters dwell represent an important carbon sink, ever growing Sphagnum, is a real asset in our fight against man-made climate change. Efforts to secure the future of these two little dragons in Britain are efforts to secure the future of our world and ourselves.

White Faced Darter, female, Foulshaw Moss, Cumbria, May 2015

So keep an eye, next summer and into the Autumn, for these species wherever you happen to wander. The two ‘red’ species so numerous here in Essex are common and widespread, flying from May into late October, even November. They are sometimes overlooked in favour of the more glamourous Aeshnids and distinctly fashionable Lestidae damselflies, but I think they have a remarkable charisma of their own.

The Aeshnid Dragonflies

 

I love Aeshnid Dragonflies. It was a love affair that probably began at Dungeness in 2010, when the big Aeshna mixta, Migrant Hawker dragonflies, provided me with excellent photography subjects and generally kept me entertained between counting passerines when I was doing my Undergraduate dissertation. I wondered at the speed at which they could climb and dive and turn, more than matching a Helicopter or a Swallow for aerial agility. I watched their hunting flights, the speed at which they could bring down insect prey small and large (ish), and how relaxed and complacent they would become when they perched up to eat and digest. I love the jewel markings like inset sapphires in their long, knitting-needle abdomens. I love their huge, wrap around compound eyes, affording a wide field of vision to spot prey and predator alike.

Aeshna juncea nomming a Speckled wood Butterfly. Isle of Mull, June 2014

These big insects are predators and no mistake. During their few short weeks on the wing they grab prey up to the size of large butterflies off the wing, and I have seen a Common Hawker (Aeshna juncea) eating a Speckled Wood Butterfly on a sunny June day on the Isle of Mull, completely unbothered by me and my camera lens, fixated on dismantling and hungrily devouring the smaller insect. They are hunters in their youth, too. A. juncea can spend a couple of years as a larva, in the small ponds in which it lives, hunting even small vertebrates like tadpoles and froglets, a veritable tiger among the pondweed. They can live at considerable latitudes, their growth limited by the low temperatures, while cogeners in Southern Europe can have several broods a year.  A. juncea is sometimes called the Moorland Hawker, for the Northern and Upland habitats in which it can thrive.

Migrant Hawker, Otmoor, Oxfordshire, August 2022

Aeshnids in the British Isles come in two genera, Aeshna, a name which Wikipedia claims might originate from a misprint, Aechma being ancient Greek for Spear, presumably in reference to their elongated shape and predatory nature, and Anax, from the ancient Greek for a king or leader, the emperor dragonflies. Both these genera are widely distributed around the globe. They are members of the order Odonata, infraorder Anisoptera, and now thought only distantly related to the similar, huge insects of Carboniferous palaeontology, though in the air they do appear true heirs to these prehistoric monsters. In adulthood all are predatory, and most are territorial, individuals patrolling stretches of hedgerow or pond side and tolerating no insect intruders.  Their larvae, called Nymphs, are, like other odonata, ambush predators, lurking in the pondweed and snatching passing water life. As large insects, they can take multiple years to mature.

Female Migrant Hawker, Essex, August 2022

In the Autumn, our most numerous Aeshnid here in Southern England is the Migrant Hawker (Aeshna mixta) which can be found, sometimes forming large groups of individuals, terrorising the little midges and such which gather in glades and on open rides, sometimes far from the water in which they started their lives. These groups can reach some numbers, and, unusually for dragonflies, they can be surprisingly tolerant of each other, seldom engaging in the high pursuit, rolling, dangerous territorial fights which seem to occupy a lot of time for other species. The Migrant Hawker only spends one year as a larva, emerging in late summer and early Autumn and remaining on the wing until mid-November where we are now.  It’s first segment is identified by a ‘golf-tee’ shaped marking. Sometimes a larger Southern Hawker (Aeshna cyanea) appears, and menaces them. This beast, which once bred in our Essex garden pond, is substantially larger than the migrant hawker, and tolerates few rivals. Its abdomen is jewelled in Blue and Green.

Elderly Migrant Hawker being 'mobbed' by a Willow Emerald Damselfly. RSPB Rainham Marshes, Essex, October 2021

More recently, Southern England, and my home county of Essex in particular, has become a hotspot for a new Aeshnid. The Southern Migrant Hawker (Aeshna affinis) is increasingly common on the ditches and grazing marshes which line the Essex coast from the Thames to the Stour. This beauty has a thorax washed with blue over a base of green, and a vivid blue abdomen. Its segment one is marked with a ‘Deadpool mask’ marking, recalling the face of Marvel’s sweary superhero.  First identified in the county in 2007, my summer was full of these stunners, fighting and breeding over clubrush and reed lined ponds and ditches in July and August. By my understanding, how long the Essex population spends as a larva remains unclear, though it is probably one year, and this incredibly handsome invertebrate is one of climate change’s winners, locally at least, benefitting from the hotter summers.

Southern Migrant Hawker, Bower's Marsh, Essex, July 2022

In contrast, Brown and Norfolk Hawkers are relatively dull in colour, large and robust, the Brown Hawker (Aeshna grandis) having brown flushed wings, and the Norfolk Hawker (Aeshna isosceles), now found much more widely in the UK than confined to Norfolk, though still considered rare and localised. The Norfolk Hawker has big, green eyes, and is relatively widespread in Continental Europe and North Africa. The Brown, which is large, has two pale diagonal stripes on its thorax and subtle blue eyes. It too is doing well, expanding its British range.

Emperor Dragonfly, male, Bowers' Marsh, Essex, July 2022

Though recently the Lesser Emperor (Anax parthenope) has been confirmed breeding in Southern England, for a long time the only Anax dragonfly in these islands has been the spectacular Emperor Dragonfly (A. imperator). This big, green and blue Dragon, by some measures the largest species in Britain, is common and familiar. I have witnessed them ovipositing in borrowdykes on the Essex marshes, and in city centre park ponds. The male has a solid, muted green thorax and a bright blue abdomen, distinctive by their size. They fly in high summer, into August, and range across much of the country.  

Southern Migrant Hawker, Essex, August 2022

Aeshnids form a most impressive family of insects.  Predators, aerobats extraordinaire, survivors and thrivers, wonders and jewelled terrors of freshwater bodies and their environs, nymph and adult. And even in November, it is not too late to see the distinctive shape of a Migrant Hawker, patrolling the hedgelines near you.

Dartford Warblers at Arne

Dartford Warblers

Dartford Warblers (Sylvia undata) are among the scarcest and most enigmatic passerines to grace these islands, and surely among the most charming. When vast tracts of heathland covered much of Southern England, the species was not uncommon, and it is named for Dartford Heath in North Kent, from which it has been absent for decades.  Perhaps more at home in Mediterranean Europe, it is on the edge of its range in Great Britain. With the increasing development and fragmentation of this habitat, sitting as it does in desirable Surrey and Dorset, it underwent decades of decline.  It is also said to be particularly vulnerable to predation by domestic cats, which can exclude it from small scraps of habitat saved from housing developments. An exclusive insectivore, and largely sedentary species, its greatest enemy is the British winter, persistent snow can wipe a colony out, and a cold winter in the early 1960s nearly did for the British population entirely, just a few pairs appearing after the snow finally melted.  However, amid great conservation effort and with possibly a small helping hand from climate change, the species is beginning to recover. 

Dartford Warbler at Arne.

There are a few places where these birds can reliably be found. Arne, and surrounding fragments of heath, and Chobham Common in Surrey, where I first met the species, host good numbers year round. They are vulnerable to disturbance, and responsible birders do not go tramping through the heather at any time of year. Occasionally individuals turn up on the coast in Southern England, undertaking short movements to avoid the very worst of the weather.

A view from Arne.

It was at the RSPB’s magnificent pristine heathland reserve at Arne, near Wareham in Dorset, that I had my most recent, and most magical encounter with these gorgeous little passerines. A solo expedition to one of my favourite corners of the country in the hope of catching up with Nightjar (I did, but not enough to blog about), I camped near this magnificent spot, a large tract of Dorset coastal heath on Poole Harbour overlooking Brownsea Island, managed impeccably for conservation, and took a long stroll among its heathland rides.  Arne was abuzz with dragonflies and butterflies and hoverflies, and 90 common spotted orchids grew along the bank of one small pond which must have hosted half a dozen different Odonata, including an iridescent Downy Emerald and a striking pair of Emperors including an Ovipositing female. It was becoming a good day.

Emperor Dragonfly (Anax imperator) ovipositing at Arne. 

 It was the song of the Dartford Warbler that first caught my attention. Imagine the song of a Whitethroat (Sylvia communis), and consider the qualities and notes which ensure the song is often described as “scratchy.”   Now distil those scratchy qualities, concentrate that Sylvia scratchiness,  andyou will begin to imagine the song of the male Dartford Warbler.  The male caught my eye first too, a small, dark coloured bird, with a longish tail, proportions somewhere between a Cetti’s Warbler and a Long Tailed Tit. He alighted briefly at the top of the heather, sang a few notes, and dropped back into the thick tangle of waist high vegetation.  He reappeared and my eyes strained to see his features in the sun glare, his dark blue-grey back and wings contrasting little with his dark pink-red underparts, and he had an air of cultivated scruffiness.  Rooting in the gorse he popped up briefly with a beak full of spiders, before dropping down to stuff his spiders into the expectant mouth of a scruffy fledgling, brown and distinctly smaller than the adult, which had emerged from the vegetation.   The fledglings and the female never left the thick heather and gorse, appearing to my eye only briefly before returning to the shelter of the thick heather canopy, but the male returned to his commanding lookout and sang, re-stating his claim to this his fragment of the coastal heath, the precious resource upon which his family depend.  Perhaps by remaining in this prominent position he also provided a distraction display focussing the attention of birders, and any would-be predators, on him, allowing the more vulnerable youngsters to slip away.

It was a magical moment with these scruffy, charismatic little survivors, and conservation icons of the lowland heath.  It was heartening to know that, with many small birds finding their breeding cycles disrupted by the late snow this spring, at least some of this most cold-sensitive warblers had successfully fledged broods. This family appeared to be doing well.

Leighton Moss

Looking at the grey sky, I am afraid I failed to rise with the lark this morning and get to the RSPB’s reserve at Leighton Moss as the Sun came up, but I did make my way to my new local big RSPB reserve this afternoon.  I arrived under the bluest sky I have seen since I arrived in the North West. The leaves on the trees up here have already started turning, leaving me feeling like I had lost a couple of weeks off the end of Summer somewhere on the M6, and despite some sunshine yesterday, it has rained continuously since the day after I arrived, albeit with rainbows.

The downpours which have afflicted the North of England in recent weeks will not have gone unnoticed given all the flood warnings. Here in Lancaster I am fine, it has rained incessantly bar two days since my arrival but when I reached Leighton Moss I was a little disappointed to find that I was only able to view half of the reserve as some of the paths had become flooded. I left the visitors centre and took the opportunity to glance at the feeding station which sits outside it. There was a large amount of Passerine activity, with chaffinches and greenfinches alongside a less familiar Marsh Tit and a number of scruffy juvenile Bullfinches. One young male Bullfinch appeared to be gaining his distinctive and instantly recognisable salmon-pink breast in awkward patches. Badger-striped coal tits were here in number, and Mallards, these ones now well past their ‘eclipse’ and regaining their adult plumage, pottered about on the ground picking up the dropped seed from the feeders.

Coal Tit at the Feeding Station.

Scruffy young bullfinch, a stark contrast with the very smart adults.

After a few attempts to photograph some of the passerines, a task made all the more difficult by the positioning of the feeders under a thick woodland canopy, I headed on to the first hide,  called Lillian’s Hide, and from it, a large structure with a wide bay window affording good views across the lake, and was able to get a feel for the reserve. I was there with few expectations, and had been expecting to find a “moss,” that is, a Sphagnum bog, of the type so threatened by peat extraction, and was surprised to find a lowland wetland of much more familiar character.  Leighton Moss is described as the largest reed bed in the North West, and is a combination of Phragmites reed-swamp with scattered clumps of Typha, with its thick dark seed heads, popularly called Bullrush, and open water, fringed by (very) wet woodland, with wooded hill slopes climbing away. It lies in or close to the Silverdale Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and the elegantly curvaceous landscape is certainly beautiful. I was surprised to see, given the autumnal character of the last few days, that there were still dragonflies on the wing. Migrant Hawkers patrolled above the reeds. Some of the people in the hide were discussing Otters which had apparently been seen the same morning. Maybe I shouldn’t have been so persistent with that snooze button.   Outside were no more than the usual suspects-coots, some scruffy Tufted Ducks, the males now moulting out of their eclipse plumage, brown and patchy with white flanks, a moorhen or two, and the obligatory mallards. I stayed to enjoy the landscape for a bit, and watch a late Red Admiral butterfly fluttering about,  but the lack of interesting birds drove me on.

RSPB Leighton Moss.

I walked along the path toward the next hide, called the Public Hide, presumably because it sits on a public footpath to Leighton Hall, passing on the way a patch of open grass and a view of the reserve. The reed swamp certainly looked expansive. I continued through a Carr woodland rich in bird calls, and Goldcrests, to the main path through the reedbeds to the hide. I found myself wading uncomfortably through water several centimetres deep, and very cold, but stuck to the path and persevered.   A sign advertised grit trays supposedly frequented by the UK’s most Northerly population of Bearded Tits, but none of these charismatic denizens of thick reed beds were out today. Another advertised Bitterns, but only a beautiful family of mute swans, dabbling about in the sunshine, were to be seen in the patch of open water I looked out upon. Above me a buzzard circled. I might have missed it but for the friendly couple with pleasant local accents who pointed it out, along with the distinct absence of bearded tits, which they suggested might be in Africa. I replied that they might equally be at Purfleet. No bearded tits, but I took a moment to enjoy the sight of a large bird of prey circling on thermals above the beautiful Lancashire countryside.

Mute Swans near the Public Hide.

The view from the public hide was not much better than the first, again with Mute Swans, Mallards, Coots and Tufties. Not fancying further wading along the flooded paths, it was with a sense of mild disappointment that I made the return trudge through the freezing water.  As I re-entered the Carr woodland I was in for a pleasant surprise. A flock of small birds was moving though, paying particular attention to one Elder bush. This was one of the big gangs of mixed passerines foraging together and taking advantage of safety in numbers through the Autumn and Winter.  They are said to tolerate each other for this reason-while each species has a subtly different diet to the others. Goldcrests foraged frenetically among the yellowing leaves, and long tailed tits contact-called to each other. Blue tits and coal tits hung upside down from the tips of branches, and Treecreepers wound their way up the stems.  Great tits paused before disappearing into the depths of the vegetation, and smart Chaffinches and Greenfinches perched boldly and openly on the lower branches.   As I stood enjoying the spectacle of all these birds around me, yet more species piled in. A very handsome, boldly striped male Siskin appeared before disappearing among the elders’ leaves. A bird I enthusiastically called as a Garden Warbler turned out to be a female Blackcap.  I am certain I have never seen a fraction of this number of goldcrests in one place before, even in sheltered southern woodlands on snowy days.  A Marsh tit was also briefly visible. An older couple also stood enjoying what the RSPB might describe as a “moment,” and they told me they had seen a Willow Warbler in the flock as well.  We were surrounded by tiny passerines. In all the flock seemed to contain no less than 11 species, including the ten I had seen and the friendly couple’s Willow Warbler.  A Robin appeared and made angry noises toward the other passerines, and as soon as the show had begun, it was over, the distinct shapes of two Long-tailed Tits were briefly silhouetted against the sky through a gap in the branches appeared as stragglers, as the flock moved on to new bushes deeper in the woods and further from the path.  I don’t know whether the chirpy but highly territorial Robin had actually chased the whole flock away, but he seemed content to have his bush to himself again.

Very nervous coot.

I continued my return journey to Lillian’s hide.  There were a few Siskins feeding on the Birch which hangs over the hide. Inside the view was a little more interesting than before, and I hung on for a while in the hope of seeing some otter action. None was forthcoming, but a handsome, and very well camouflaged Snipe offered a rare photo opportunity, as it probed about in the  mud where some of the reeds had been cut, in search of invertebrate prey.  A very handsome Grey Heron stood silently and solemnly on one of the islands, eventually tucking his head away under one wing and roosting there. A single Little Egret flew over. I was surprised to see the small white heron so far north just a few decades after its rapid invasion of the country, I thought of them as a Southern thing.  A Gadwall, a male smart in his fresh breeding plumage, swam by, allowing me to add another water fowl to my list. As I enjoyed the view, I saw a number of Mallards take off in the back of my view. The coots instantly fell silent. One moment ago they had been splashing about, calling, bickering with each other, and diving for weeds. Now they swam quickly, some of them running on the water, onto the island, where they stood tensely among the reeds staring fixedly across the water. I followed their gaze. A Marsh Harrier was quartering over distant reeds, wings raised in a shallow V, with gold around her face and the leading edges of her wings. She settled into a bush across the water, where she remained as long as I did. I waited a while, fruitlessly, in the hope of meeting my first English otter, and eventually the tension among the coots subsided and some of the bolder ones ventured back into the water, still clearly aware of the deadly predator on the other side of the water. 

Very handsome and obliging Snipe.

I took a walk back to the RSPB visitors centre for a swift cup of coffee, and then took another look at the feeders.  I could hear the low, throaty bellowing of Red Deer stags in the distance, an enthralling and unfamiliar sound to this Southerner.  A handsome cock Pheasant strutted up and down beneath them. A brown passerine on one of the feeders was revealed to be a Redpoll, another less familiar species. Its body was brown and heavily streaked, with a small red cap on its forehead.   Passerine numbers were down on this morning, perhaps the fading light, and failing weather, it had begun spitting again, had seen some of them off to roost. I watched the antics of some of the remaining birds for a while, there was still a Marsh tit about, before I decided to jump in the car and try to reach the other end of the reserve. The RSPB land straddles a railway line, and to reach the other side I had to drive up in the direction of Silverdale and over a level crossing, then take a right turn after crossing a bridge. Inevitably, I got completely lost and spent several minutes trying to find the place. When I did, and I never got as far as the two Salt marsh hides, which overlook the edges of Morecambe Bay, I discovered Leighton Moss had one more trick up its sleeve to really impress me.

Pheasant at the feeding station.

I drove up the gravel track, having found it eventually, and stopped behind another driver who was looking up at the starlings, which had gathered in some number on the telephone wires which hung between two poles each side of the road, framing a small railway bridge and the sunset behind them. Every couple of minutes a small group of Starlings would arrive from somewhere and jostle for position with the birds which had already arrived. The gentleman in the other car passed me and remarked he was off to get his camera, the starlings had arrived. He departed down the road. Not long after he left, a larger flock appeared, and, as if at a signal, they combined with the flock on the wires and ascended into the sky. At first a disorganised mass of birds, a shape moving low over the reeds appeared to cause them to transform. All at once the edges of the flock became sharply defined, each bird apparently moving as part of some combined whole. They moved quickly, sharply, and as one dived into the reeds. A few moments later the chattering started, and the dark shape rose up and away headed for the hills. It was a fat dark shape, a ball of muscle, a clenched fist of a bird, between pointed wings. I recorded it as a male Peregrine, as it slipped out of site. I waited a few moments listening to the chattering in the reeds. A few pied wagtails flew low over the tops of the reeds as Cormorants passed inland over my head, and a fine rain began to fall as the light continued to fade, the sunset burning a deep yellow-orange, a gap in the cloud fringing the horizon. Lapwings flew down off the slopes, perhaps from further inland, in a flock, toward some protected saltmarsh roosting site. The gentleman with the other car returned with his camera, and was a little disappointed to find himself with only a noisy reed bed to point it at.  A distance away a Marsh Harrier put up small flocks of starlings, rising out of the reeds like puffs of smoke. We both looked at it through the binoculars and enjoyed the presence of a splendid raptor.   The next predator to appear, the starlings saw before we did. First, the noisy chattering of the birds stopped, and then, with a roar like the ocean, like waves breaking on a shingle beach, the starlings in the reeds took flight. The murmuration twisted, a single dark shape composed of what must be hundreds of birds, above the reed bed. Assigning a number of birds to them would have been impossible.  The predator, a juvenile Sparrowhawk which only briefly passed through our field of view, continued on its way and must have cleared the area quite quickly, as the starlings dived down into the reeds in a single column. They fell silent but the sound of the birds’ wings in unison was probably the most memorable feature of the spectacle.  Eventually the chattering resumed, and we watched the sky fill not with dense flocks of starlings but a more diffuse flock of hirundines, shortly, surely, to be on their way back to Africa in pursuit of bugs and summer.  Loosing the light, I headed home, with the word "murmuration" and the sound of hundreds of starling wings in my ears.

Murmuration.

Hornchurch Country Park and the Ingrebourne Valley

On Tuesday afternoon, my good friend Tom and I made a trip down to the green part of the Ingrebourne Valley, stretching from Upminster Bridge, and accessed by the Hornchurch AFC football stadium, down almost as far as Rainham, where our local river flows into the Thames estuary. We had chosen a bright sunny day and there were plenty of smart Banded Demoiselles about. These stunning insects, which have a bright, metallic lustre about their bodies, and, in the male, deep blue bands on their clear wings, are specialists in these fast flowing streams.   Swifts and house martins were overhead, circling in the clear blue sky. House Martins, it is now understood, spend a lot of their time feeding at such altitudes to be outside of our visual range, and these were climbing higher, ascending to height and disappearing from view.

We heard the first cuckoo of the day not long after joining the Ingrebourne valley, and outside of Hornchurch Country park “proper.” Cuckoos populations are, like those of many long range migrant birds and farmland specialists, are declining, and are something of a conservation priority. That was far from apparent in the Ingrebourne Valley. A short while later one of these elusive birds flew overhead.  The presence of relatively scarce and declining farmland birds was remarkable that day, but more of those to come.

Banded Demoiselle at the Ingrebourne Valley

Passing the inevitable flocks of Carrion Crow, Woodpigeon and Feral Pigeon, we wandered along the river, glancing down into it in the hope of catching sight of one of the fabled Barbel, large fish which spend their lives fighting against the strong current, but these, unfortunately, proved elusive.  Orange tip and Small White butterflies were on the wing, and there were chaffinches and robins singing. Arriving at the lookout point over the Ingrebourne valley,  a little charm of goldfinches flew over us. A few benches here provide excellent views over an area where the Ingrebourne has been allowed to widen and form reed beds, with green phragmites spikes rising out of the brown remnants of last year’s growth, and spread over flat areas of mud and shallow water.  To our surprise a migratory wader, somewhat scarce in the South East, was feeding in the shallows. It was a small plover, and the bright yellow eye ring which gave it away as a little ringed plover was clearly apparent. It was happy to pose for a couple of ID able photos. We sat for a while and admired the view, a juvenile Grey Heron, a typical denizen of wetlands all over Europe, lazily flew past, and a few moments later, a Little Egret flew off in the same direction.  There was a mute swan further upriver, and a small flock of mallards also contained a pair of Gadwall.  A couple of Lapwing, another bird not so common in the summer months around here arrived and began their display of aerial agility, whistling and rocking from side to side in flight flashing their bright white undersides and metallic green topsides. We watched the display with interest, what purpose it served was not clear, the affirmation of a pair bond, or perhaps to distract some unseen predator. It distracted us, and we watched the birds for a while until they moved on to another part of the river.

View from the viewpoint over the marshes.

Little Ringed Plover

We continued our walk to where second world war pill boxes, heavily armed positions built for a frantic, last ditch defence of Hornchurch Airfield in the event of a Nazi invasion, stood looking over the marsh.  Here RAF personnel would have maintained a vigil, even as the bombs fell on the airfield they were charged with protecting.      We went inside one of the concrete structures, and despite litter and graffiti it retained an eerie sense of history. In front of the pill box lay extensive marshes, beds of phragmites, but the view of these was now obscured by growing brambles.  Behind it, beside the asphalt path, stood a few Hawthorns, and a whitethroat sang from the upper branches of one of these.  The May Blossom has now begun to fade, but summer wildflowers were abundant and a Small Heath butterfly fluttered between them. This little brown Satyrid butterfly is often a species of very old stretches of grassland and I believe this was my first one at Hornchurch Country Park. 

One of the wartime pill boxes at Hornchurch Country Park. Everything looks a bit more evocative in black and white.

As the path snaked around towards Albyn’s Farm Lake, we heard another cuckoo singing in the trees. Chiffchaffs and great tits also sang, and we caught site of a bird which might have been a blackcap. The lake itself revealed little of interest so we proceeded towards Ingrebourne hill, a huge, grassed over pile of rubbish now designated as a nature reserve. We passed a field which was alive with wildflowers, and saw a Kestrel mobbed and harassed by a whole flock of starlings, behaviour which, of course, they abandoned as soon as I got my camera out. The starlings assembled on gates and fences, clearing the path as we passed, returning to it once it was behind us. 

Meadow Habitat at Ingrebourne Hill

It was here we got another pleasant surprise. There are Skylarks here, we must have seen ten or so individuals. One sang from a fence upright and allowed us close enough to take photos. It was a handsome, streaky brown bird, about the size of a starling, with a small but obvious crest on its head. Another two hung in the sky, hovering, on their song flights. Loud, trilling and whistling skylark techno filled the air. Birds appeared out of the grass as we approached and we stuck to the path for fear of disturbing, or stepping on, any of the nests on the ground.    Skylarks, and their song once almost ubiquitous in the English countryside are another of these species whose populations are now in virtual freefall. Changing, more intensified farming practices, and earlier harvests are destroying their nests, although they show signs of benefiting from Agricultural Stewardship Schemes.  Joe Public and his dogs are also something of a menace, as the animals, left off leads to run in the grass, will often sniff out and devour the eggs and chicks of skylarks, while their owners are all too often oblivious. Plenty of dogs and their humans use Ingrebourne hill, although some of the neighbouring fields flourish with wild vegetation and have access restricted by wire fences.   Public access has its drawbacks from a conservation point of view.

Very vocal, and confiding, Skylark at Ingrebourne Hill.

We walked back the way we came, and saw a Red Fox at the bottom of ingrebourne hill, disappearing into the scrub. Making our way back we paused at Albyns Farm Lake to watch several flotillas of Canada Geese and their Goslings, each family with chicks of a slightly different size.  Their parents lowered their heads and hissed each time one of the solitary, non-breeding adults came close.  A great crested grebe hung about close to the island in the middle, and there were a few coots, moorhens and Tufted Ducks about. Wildfowl scattered as a couple of idiots encouraged their hounds to take a swim in the water, but thankfully the dogs seemed uninterested in any of the young birds. They do stir up the water and disturb the wildlife, why one would allow a predator like that to swim in a lake full of young birds is beyond me, but mercifully no harm seemed to be done, this time.

Canada Geese and Goslings on Albyn's Farm Lake.

As we passed the viewpoint again there was one more treat in store for us, as the hawk like shape of a cuckoo flew past us, giving us both good views. It is a sleek, slender grey bird, reminiscent of a Sparrowhawk with a long tail. The head is held slightly raised in flight, giving the body a curious shape, somewhat reminiscent of a banana.  They must be breeding here, parasitizing the nests perhaps of Dunnocks or Reed Warblers, both of which are found here, I assume, as they would be unlikely to be here in such numbers on passage.  I tend to think of the Cuckoo as a relatively scarce bird, worthy of a summer visit to Heybridge Basin or Lakenheath Fen to see, but here they were, at least three separate birds, in a strip of country bordered by suburban metropolitan Essex in all directions.  This unique strip of land deserves its SSSI and local nature reserve designation, and seems, almost every time, to host unexpected wildlife. Below is a rather gorgeous hairy caterpillar we found on the grass near Albyn's farm, any ideas?

Beautiful, but as yet unidentified caterpillar.