Southend meets the Mediterranean.

 Southend Pier stretches over a mile out into the Thames Estuary, from the newly designated City of Southend, on Essex’ Estuary coast.  It was built in the 19^th Century to load and unload deep hulled sailing vessels, regardless of the state of the tide. Today it lives on, and is proudly proclaimed the longest pleasure pier in the world. For those from out of area, the River Thames here is several miles broad, the North coast of Kent sometimes lost in the haze on a misty day, the water is saline, the fish which swim beneath are marine, and the tidal range is substantial, leaving vast mudflats when the tide is low.  On a sunny day, it is a pleasant, if not a short stroll, out along the historic wooden boards, until you can really feel surrounded by water, a long way from the noise and bustle of Southend’s Sea Front, where dizzying theme parks and noisy arcades dominate. It is a place, in winter at least, of unexpected tranquility, and also, unexpected wildlife.

Mediterranean Gull, Southend Pier, January 2023

On the day of our visit frost, and caution had closed the historic boards when we arrived, so we embarked on the new, green, battery-powered train that has replaced the classic blue diesels, which are now reduced to waiting rooms and curiosities at the two pier stations.

Mediterranean Gull on Southend Pier. 

Upon exiting the pier train, we were met by one of our avian stars, an adult Mediterranean Gull (Ichthyaetus melanocephalus) which perched on one of the pastel painted beach huts, no doubt a coffee kiosk in high season. The Mediterranean Gull is uniquely beautiful among British gulls, and, always, in recent years, the most numerous Gull at the end of the Pier. As an adult, it creates the impression of a near all-white bird, its upper wings only lightly shaded in silver-grey.  In winter a black ‘smear’ creeps back from behind its eye, in contrast with the distinct dark ‘spot’ of winter plumage Black Headed Gulls (Chroicocephlus ridibundus), probably the nearest confusion species.  This commoner species was out here too, though in smaller numbers, a little smaller than the Med Gulls, with darker red to the legs and bill

Mediterranean Gull, Southend Pier.

As its name suggests the Mediterranean Gull is something of a newcomer to these shores, having  for most of its known history been confined to a few small colonies around the Eastern Mediterranean, the Black Sea and Turkey. Here they bred in relatively small numbers under the baking summer sun.  The Med Gull was never the characteristic Gull of the Mediterranean region- that honour goes to the Yellow-Legged Gull, essentially, visually at least, a Herring Gull with yellow legs, or a Lesser Black Back with a paler back. Mediterranean Gulls are not your regular holiday seagull- though I did once see a pair drift over a Spanish beach.   Tied to the coast, in winter they seem to wander the Mediterranean outside of their breeding season.  In the latter decades of the 20^th Century, something changed for the Mediterranean Gull, and the species began to establish small colonies in the South of France and in Spain, and later on the coasts of Belgium, Germany and the Netherlands, on the North Sea coast of Europe.  Now it breeds fairly abundantly in Southern England, along both the channel and the North Sea coasts, the odd pair pitching up at big Black Headed Gull Colonies such as at Two Tree Island, or forming colonies of their own on the shingle of Rye Harbour in Kent.  A spectacularly beautiful Gull in any season, in summer they become even more impressive, sporting jet black heads, with white eye rings, contrasting strongly with the brown hood of the Black Headed Gull, as reflected in its name in several European languages, for example, the Dutch Zwartkopmeeuw, causing consternation for international birders who neglect their scientific names.  Their white wings are all the more vivid in the summer sunshine.

Here on Southend Pier in the vague January haze, their wings still look bright, lacking black tips or contrasting leading edges that most common comparable species possess. But as someone passes, dropping a few chips, the angelic looking Med Gulls reveal themselves every bit as opportunistic and adaptive as their more familiar cousins, and they dive from their pastel beach-hut perches onto the dropped bounty, noisily squabbling among themselves for our wasted food.

Turnstone, Southend Pier

Another bird likes to hang out on the Pier’s end, another confiding opportunist, not afraid to pick up some of our scraps, and this one is adorable. Little bigger than a Starling, Turnstones, or Ruddy Turnstones (Arenaria interpes) as they are internationally known, are world-travellers, some of them crossing the Atlantic to reach our shores from Greenland and Northern Canada. There seems forever to be a population of these impossibly charismatic, charming little shorebirds on the move, and despite not occurring in the British Isles as a Breeding species, they seem to be here almost all year, absent only in May and June.  They can often be found on pebbly shores, turning stones, sometimes, in an unlikely display of strength, quite large stones, to hunt for the invertebrates underneath. They are unfussy about tucking into any sea-washed carcass that may turn up too. But on Southend Pier, running about among the feet of the visitors, and the colourful mini-golf course, they have learned to make a reasonable living from what we leave behind. Leftover fishing bait, chunks of Lugworm or Ragworm, probably extracted locally, seem to be a favourite, but a bit of sandwich won’t go amiss either. Hundreds of them roost on a small, wave-lapped slipway, and can reliably be seen there at high tide.  I suspect these smart little migrants tend to be unnoticed by most of the pier’s visitors,  but I find them extraordinarily photogenic. I have blogged about them before.  Have a browse. It’s there somewhere.

Turnstone, Southend Pier

Birds are not the only wildlife causing a stir at the end of the Pier. Mammals too, are in evidence. A pair of young Grey Seals raise their heads above the surface, and gaze up with appealing watery eyes. Recently afforded full legal protection, these popular piscivores are often encountered in estuaries, and despite the risk of ship collision, both our wild species of seal seem to be thriving, with Common Seals sometimes hauled out and sunning themselves on mudflats right in to Dartford and Rainham, the other side of London’s Dartford Crossing.  Grey Seals seem less abundant locally, but they are capable of travelling substantial distances.  These playful youngsters chased each other about, and eyed with curiosity the humans taking in the winter sun and sea air. I wondered if they occasionally take advantage of the growing popularity of catch-and-release among sea anglers, and how many small fish had been compassionately and carefully released into the green water, still bewildered and gasping, to immediately encounter the toothy and powerful maw of a Grey Seal.

Grey Seals, Southend Pier, January 2022. Photo by Emma Bickford. 

We walked back along the pier, toward the coast, and the noise, leaving these three wildlife stars behind us, as skeins of Brent Geese, another Essex icon, made their way across the cold blue sky.

Southend Pier

The Darter Dragonflies

As I write, it is grey outside. Mild now the now has melted, but drizzling and chill. Dragonfly season is well over. But it lasted into October, even November with the mild conditions and today feels an excellent day to look back.

Ruddy Darter, male, Essex 2022

At nearly every site I surveyed, the most numerous genus of Dragonfly I encountered, especially as the season pushed on into August and September, was Sympetrum. Specifically, Sympetrum sanguineum, the Ruddy Darter, and S. striolatum, the Common Darter, the former apparently capable of surviving even mildly brackish water conditions, favouring low lying coastal marshland, occurring alongside Scarce Emerald Damselfly (Lestes dryas) and Southern Migrant Hawker (Aeshna affinis). The latter, S. striolatum, is capable of flying well into the season of mists and mellow fruitfulness and is often one of the last dragonflies on the wing. However despite their abundance, and their abundant charisma, this genus seems relatively unexplored in the popular literature.

Ruddy Darter, Male, in Obelisk position as he attempts to lose heat during the heatwave of July 2022. 

These represent the two commonest species of Sympetrum, a genus in the family Libellulidae. Both species are broadly speaking red in the adult male, and gold, fading to brown in the the females. These creatures are, like other Odonata, agile aerial predators as adults, darting from their perches and sunbathing spots to seize small insects off the wing. It is this darting habit which gives them their common name. Their larvae lurk in almost any still or slow-moving body of water you might find.

Common Darter, Rainham Marshes, October 2021

Most numerous in the low coastal marshes of Essex in June and July is the Ruddy Darter (Sympetrum sanguineum),the males vivid, blood-red as the scientific name implies, the females an eye catching straw gold. They are the smallest of the ‘large’ dragonflies (Anisoptera) typically on the wing. They tend to form an assemblage with Scarce Emerald Damselflies (Lestes dryas) and Southern Migrant Hawkers (Aeshna affinis) alongside several of the small, blue damselflies, a habit noted by Brooks and Cham in their excellent field guide, which I found reflected strongly when I had the privilege of carrying out dragonfly surveys for a conservation organisation in the Summer of 2022. The males possess something of a ‘waist’ to the abdomen and can appear club tailed. Legs are jet black and the thorax lacks distinct stripes.

Common Darter, Otmoor, Oxfordshire, September 2022

Common Darter Breeding territories are closely guarded, with adults prepared to chase away any intruders, but away from water, their habitats are different. They like to be in the sun, and pick the sunniest spot they can find, and bathe in it, absorbing the solar energy through their skin. Signage, gateposts and fencing are among their favoured perches, and here they can gather in large numbers, occasionally lifting up, briefly, to grab some passing prey on the wing, or in readiness to flee a threatening shadow, before settling back down again, usually in the same patch of sunshine from which they took off. In Autumn especially, Common Darters can be surprisingly willing to come and sit on an outstretched hand, something I have witnessed and done several times, at a few sites up and down the country. Try it one sunny afternoon. Go somewhere with abundant Common Darters, any still water with adjacent sunlit rides is a good bet, find a patch of sunshine, and hold out a hand.Perhaps these engaging insects will come and visit. Stand calmly; they are completely harmless and will not bite, and they will use you as a sunbathing and bug hunting post.

Black Darter, male, Garry, Isle of Lewis and Harris, Scotland, August 2021

Both Common and Ruddy Darter are abundant and thriving, but another Sympetrum, S. danae, the Black Darter, a specialist of acidic pools on heath and moorland, has shown significant declines in its numbers in recent years. It is still an abundant dragonfly in the somewhat specialised habitats in which it occurs. Our smallest Sympetrum, and indeed our smallest true Dragonfly, shorter than your little finger, the male S. danae is also the only entirely black dragonfly in Britain; the female is black and gold. Like their red lowland cousins they can be confiding and will occasionally perch on fingers. Another upland species, under more extreme threat of local extinction, is the White-Faced Darter (Leucorrhinia dubia), reintroduced since 2010 to Foulshaw Moss in Cumbria, a Cumbria Wildlife Trust reserve probably most famous for its breeding Ospreys. A true specialist, this beautiful insect, with a white frons and a body dappled red and black, or gold and black in the female, they spend their larval development right down among the mass of sphagnum, avoiding open water, or anywhere fish can be found. Like so many species of the North, it is threatened by peat extraction, the abandonment of traditional moorland management, and by a warming climate. The peatland habitats in which these two darters dwell represent an important carbon sink, ever growing Sphagnum, is a real asset in our fight against man-made climate change. Efforts to secure the future of these two little dragons in Britain are efforts to secure the future of our world and ourselves.

White Faced Darter, female, Foulshaw Moss, Cumbria, May 2015

So keep an eye, next summer and into the Autumn, for these species wherever you happen to wander. The two ‘red’ species so numerous here in Essex are common and widespread, flying from May into late October, even November. They are sometimes overlooked in favour of the more glamourous Aeshnids and distinctly fashionable Lestidae damselflies, but I think they have a remarkable charisma of their own.

The Aeshnid Dragonflies

 

I love Aeshnid Dragonflies. It was a love affair that probably began at Dungeness in 2010, when the big Aeshna mixta, Migrant Hawker dragonflies, provided me with excellent photography subjects and generally kept me entertained between counting passerines when I was doing my Undergraduate dissertation. I wondered at the speed at which they could climb and dive and turn, more than matching a Helicopter or a Swallow for aerial agility. I watched their hunting flights, the speed at which they could bring down insect prey small and large (ish), and how relaxed and complacent they would become when they perched up to eat and digest. I love the jewel markings like inset sapphires in their long, knitting-needle abdomens. I love their huge, wrap around compound eyes, affording a wide field of vision to spot prey and predator alike.

Aeshna juncea nomming a Speckled wood Butterfly. Isle of Mull, June 2014

These big insects are predators and no mistake. During their few short weeks on the wing they grab prey up to the size of large butterflies off the wing, and I have seen a Common Hawker (Aeshna juncea) eating a Speckled Wood Butterfly on a sunny June day on the Isle of Mull, completely unbothered by me and my camera lens, fixated on dismantling and hungrily devouring the smaller insect. They are hunters in their youth, too. A. juncea can spend a couple of years as a larva, in the small ponds in which it lives, hunting even small vertebrates like tadpoles and froglets, a veritable tiger among the pondweed. They can live at considerable latitudes, their growth limited by the low temperatures, while cogeners in Southern Europe can have several broods a year.  A. juncea is sometimes called the Moorland Hawker, for the Northern and Upland habitats in which it can thrive.

Migrant Hawker, Otmoor, Oxfordshire, August 2022

Aeshnids in the British Isles come in two genera, Aeshna, a name which Wikipedia claims might originate from a misprint, Aechma being ancient Greek for Spear, presumably in reference to their elongated shape and predatory nature, and Anax, from the ancient Greek for a king or leader, the emperor dragonflies. Both these genera are widely distributed around the globe. They are members of the order Odonata, infraorder Anisoptera, and now thought only distantly related to the similar, huge insects of Carboniferous palaeontology, though in the air they do appear true heirs to these prehistoric monsters. In adulthood all are predatory, and most are territorial, individuals patrolling stretches of hedgerow or pond side and tolerating no insect intruders.  Their larvae, called Nymphs, are, like other odonata, ambush predators, lurking in the pondweed and snatching passing water life. As large insects, they can take multiple years to mature.

Female Migrant Hawker, Essex, August 2022

In the Autumn, our most numerous Aeshnid here in Southern England is the Migrant Hawker (Aeshna mixta) which can be found, sometimes forming large groups of individuals, terrorising the little midges and such which gather in glades and on open rides, sometimes far from the water in which they started their lives. These groups can reach some numbers, and, unusually for dragonflies, they can be surprisingly tolerant of each other, seldom engaging in the high pursuit, rolling, dangerous territorial fights which seem to occupy a lot of time for other species. The Migrant Hawker only spends one year as a larva, emerging in late summer and early Autumn and remaining on the wing until mid-November where we are now.  It’s first segment is identified by a ‘golf-tee’ shaped marking. Sometimes a larger Southern Hawker (Aeshna cyanea) appears, and menaces them. This beast, which once bred in our Essex garden pond, is substantially larger than the migrant hawker, and tolerates few rivals. Its abdomen is jewelled in Blue and Green.

Elderly Migrant Hawker being 'mobbed' by a Willow Emerald Damselfly. RSPB Rainham Marshes, Essex, October 2021

More recently, Southern England, and my home county of Essex in particular, has become a hotspot for a new Aeshnid. The Southern Migrant Hawker (Aeshna affinis) is increasingly common on the ditches and grazing marshes which line the Essex coast from the Thames to the Stour. This beauty has a thorax washed with blue over a base of green, and a vivid blue abdomen. Its segment one is marked with a ‘Deadpool mask’ marking, recalling the face of Marvel’s sweary superhero.  First identified in the county in 2007, my summer was full of these stunners, fighting and breeding over clubrush and reed lined ponds and ditches in July and August. By my understanding, how long the Essex population spends as a larva remains unclear, though it is probably one year, and this incredibly handsome invertebrate is one of climate change’s winners, locally at least, benefitting from the hotter summers.

Southern Migrant Hawker, Bower's Marsh, Essex, July 2022

In contrast, Brown and Norfolk Hawkers are relatively dull in colour, large and robust, the Brown Hawker (Aeshna grandis) having brown flushed wings, and the Norfolk Hawker (Aeshna isosceles), now found much more widely in the UK than confined to Norfolk, though still considered rare and localised. The Norfolk Hawker has big, green eyes, and is relatively widespread in Continental Europe and North Africa. The Brown, which is large, has two pale diagonal stripes on its thorax and subtle blue eyes. It too is doing well, expanding its British range.

Emperor Dragonfly, male, Bowers' Marsh, Essex, July 2022

Though recently the Lesser Emperor (Anax parthenope) has been confirmed breeding in Southern England, for a long time the only Anax dragonfly in these islands has been the spectacular Emperor Dragonfly (A. imperator). This big, green and blue Dragon, by some measures the largest species in Britain, is common and familiar. I have witnessed them ovipositing in borrowdykes on the Essex marshes, and in city centre park ponds. The male has a solid, muted green thorax and a bright blue abdomen, distinctive by their size. They fly in high summer, into August, and range across much of the country.  

Southern Migrant Hawker, Essex, August 2022

Aeshnids form a most impressive family of insects.  Predators, aerobats extraordinaire, survivors and thrivers, wonders and jewelled terrors of freshwater bodies and their environs, nymph and adult. And even in November, it is not too late to see the distinctive shape of a Migrant Hawker, patrolling the hedgelines near you.

Great White Egrets

 I stood in a hide, at the RSPB's splended Ham Wall nature reserve in Somerset, in view of Glastonbury Tor, that small tower sat atop a hill overlooking the Somerset Levels, the marshes of Avalon, alleged stamping ground of King Arthur and his Knights, where Pagan Britons and Christian Anglo-Saxons apocryphally made play for the heart and soul of what we now call England. A mighty bird stood in front of me, just metres away, filling the 75-250mm lens of my camera, all in white, bill turning from black to yellow, fishing, preening with an air of magisterial indifference. The bird stood tall, the shape of a skinny Grey Heron, or an albino woodpigeon with a snake threaded through it, wearing stilts. It stepped forward, creeping, and stared at the water, with the suggestion of intent, before continuing to preen itself.  When noisier people entered the hide, it flew away, low across the water to a new position behind the reeds.

This experience would have been unheard of a few decades ago. First recorded in Britain in the mid 19th Century, though possibly with a history here going back much further, the Great White Egret was a scarce vagrant, less than annual until the 1990s, then annual wintering, I saw my first in 2010, at Dungeness in Kent, where a wintering bird, earning the universal Great White Egret nickname of 'Sharky,' had taken up home in a far flung reedbed. It was little more than a speck in my scope, the size of the bird, its height against the reeds, and its bright yellow bill (which turns black in the breeding season) making it unmistakeable. Great White Egrets are sometimes considered confusable with Little Egrets, but in reality I find them more confusable with a swan, on account of their huge scale in comparison with the more familiar of our two white herons. If you think you might have seen a Great White Egret, you haven't. You have seen a Little Egret. If you see a Great White Egret, you know what you have seen.

My next encounter with the species was in Greece, where I worked as a volunteer for the Hellenic Ornithological Society. A flock of 30 'Sharkies' had dropped into the brackish water marsh, cleared out from their breeding grounds, looking for somewhere to spend the winter. I watched in wonder as they stood stock still in the mirror still water, harbingers of a changing season. Southern and Eastern Europe once held the nearest surviving Great White Egrets. Once common in much of Central Europe, Great White Egrets, like so many charismatic wetland species, were victims of persecution as competitors for fish, and of the millinery trade in the 19th and early 20th century, pushing the centre of their European population East, with birds shot off their nests in the breeding season for their showy breeding plumes, a bold fashion statement for a Victorian lady to wear on her hat. The species has a wide distribution spanning five continents, and many North American colonies of Great Whites faced similar persecution. It was seeing the fate of these birds on their nests which spurred into action the ladies who went on to found both  the RSPB and the Audobon Society, whose campaigns eventually saw the species have something of a repreive, on both sides of the Atlantic.  So it was from Southern and Eastern Europe that the species began to spread.

In 2012, the species bred in the UK for the first time, on the Somerset Levels, at Shapwick Heath, a stones' throw from my Great White Egret experience. In 2017 it bred in Norfolk. Its breeding population continues to grow, and all these breeding attempts have involved small colonies of multiple pairs, on stick nests in trees, not dissimilar to Herons and Little Egrets. In January this year, one flew over my house in Wirksworth, Derbyshire, easily distinguished from a little egret by the sharp bend in its neck, protruding like a keel, and by its vast size and yellow bill like a sword. I have seen them standing in the fields by the Derwent of a morning with the Grey Herons, presumably joining them in munching any small mammals driven from cover by the intense winter cold. Several pairs breed at Shapwick Heath, and it was the most numerous Heron I saw at Ham Wall, and they winter up and down the country, including at Attenborough in Nottinghamshire, where their flights to roost are a popular sideshow to the spectacular winter Starling murmurations.

The Great White Egret is doing well. And I wholeheartedly approve.  Within minutes of its departure, no sooner than the hide was quiet again, my Great White Egret was back, ducks herding their broods away into the reeds with justified concern, and back to preening, nonchalantly, at home in this place of Arthurian legend.